Camino Primitivo – a information & strolling phases 2022

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Camino Primitivo or the Unique Manner is part of the Northern Camino community that features Camino Primitivo, Camino del Norte (the Northern Manner), and Camino Ingles (the English Manner).

The whole distance of the Camino Primitivo is 321 km it may be accomplished in two weeks. The path begins on the cathedral of Oviedo and finishes on the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. It’s thought of to be the hardest out of all Camino de Santiago routes as a result of many steep ascents and descents. The route passes by means of two Spanish provinces – Asturias and Galicia and provides an awesome in-nature expertise mixed with good infrastructure. In keeping with the statistics for 2019 solely 4% (about 16 000 folks a yr) of all of the pilgrims who stroll the Camino de Santiago select the Primitive Manner.

Obtain our free PDF information to make your Camino Primitivo planning simpler. A listing of locations to remain on the Camino Primitivo and Camino Primitivo strolling phases.

Scenery on the Camino Primitivo
Embalse de Salime, Camino Primitivo, Spain

Camino Primitivo route overview

  • Distance – 321 km/200 mi
  • Variety of days required – 12-14
  • Start line – Oviedo, Asturias
  • Common price – 25-30 Euro per particular person per day
  • Lodging – private and non-private albergues, accommodations, pensions

The identify “primitivo” refers to its origin as the primary Camino Jacobeo (Camino de Santiago). Spanish king Alfonso II was the primary pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela, he walked the Camino within the IX century to commemorate the invention of the stays of apostle St. James in Compostela a few years earlier. At the moment many of the Spanish territory was underneath Moorish management, solely the Northern a part of Spain remained unbiased.

A map of the Camino Primitivo route to Santiago
The map of the Camino Primitivo from Ovideo to Santiago de Compostela

Camino Primitivo will be mixed with the Camino del Norte and the French Camino. Each Caminos have connection routes to Oviedo the place the Unique Manner begins. The Camino de Salvador is a connection route from León (the French Manner) to Oviedo. On the Camino del Norte there’s a route cut up simply earlier than Gijón that goes to Oviedo.

The very best months for strolling

Positively, summer season is the perfect time to do the Camino. It’s heat with fewer rainfalls although within the mountains the climate is unpredictable and adjustments shortly. July and August are the busiest months for this Camino with the greatest climate situations. We walked this route finish of Might starting of June and obtained fairly a little bit of rain although everyone instructed us it wasn’t regular often it’s heat and sunny this time of the yr.

Shoulder season Might – June and September is usually a good time for strolling the climate is good and not many individuals. We wouldn’t suggest strolling the Camino Primitivo low season from November to March as many albergues are closed for this era plus it’s chilly and wet.

Average monthly temperatures on the Camino Primitivo, Asturias
Common high and low temperatures all year long in Asturias, Spain
Average rainfalls on the Original Way, Spain
Common rainfalls all year long in Asturias, Spain

Sensible data for the pilgrimage

There should not many information books on the Camino Primitivo, the perfect one is Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo: To Santiago De Compostela and Finisterre from Irun or Oviedo by Cicerone, 2019.

So as to get the Compostela on the finish of the Camino, it’s essential to get two stamps per day for the final 100 km to Santiago de Compostela.

Roads can get fairly muddy on the Camino Primitivo, plus frequent rainfalls, deliver waterproof sneakers, jacket, rain poncho, backpack cowl.

Purchase a native SIM card, it’s very helpful for locating locations and checking on distances. We purchased a Vodafone bundle 2Gb information + 200min. native cellphone requires 15 Euro, legitimate for 30 days. It was greater than sufficient for 2 weeks of strolling, we uploaded movies and photographs on Instagram and Fb day-after-day.

The route is marked fairly effectively although within the Asturian half indicators are typically complicated.

Hostels for pilgrims on the Camino are known as “albergues“.

Each pilgrim will need to have a Credential – a pilgrim’s passport that comprises your identify. It will get stamped at each albergue you alongside the way in which. To remain at public albergues you want a Credential. In addition to for getting the Compostela in Santiago.

You will get a Credential on the Vacationer Workplace, Plaza de Constitucion, 4 in Oviedo.

You possibly can’t ebook municipal (authorities) albergues, it really works on a primary come first serve system. Non-public albergues will be booked upfront over the cellphone or by means of on-line reserving companies.

All municipal albergues on this route price between 5 and 7 Euro pp. Non-public albergues have often higher services, are extra comfy and fashionable, value between 12 and 14 Euro.

Municipal albergues don’t have lockers we’d advise having a small bag to hold your worthwhile stuff with.

Within the excessive season most municipal albergues permit you to keep solely one night time, they will make an exception in the event you get sick, have some issues along with your legs, and so forth.

Most albergues have washing and drying machines, value between 2,5 to three Euro per load.

You will discover extra data on lodging on the Camino in our put up Albergues on the Camino de Santiago.

If you wish to make your stroll a bit simpler you should utilize a backpack shuttle service, they drive your backpack from albergue to albergue day-after-day. The common value is 5-6 Euro per backpack per day. There are a number of corporations providing a baggage supply service on the Camino Primitivo. Correos, Pilbeo, and Caminofacil are the preferred.

Faucet water is potable on this a part of Spain we by no means purchased bottled water or used any purification and by no means had any drawback.

In Spain like in most international locations of Europe, they use Europlug – two spherical pongs, 220-240V. You would possibly want a journey adapter.

It’s doable to change from the French Manner or the Camino del Norte and proceed strolling to Santiago on the Primitivo we met fairly just a few individuals who did that.

If it’s essential to purchase some form of drugs that requires a prescription ask your physician again residence to e-mail it to you. In Spanish pharmacies, they often ask you to ship it to their e-mail deal with in the event you can’t print it.

In Spanish cities outlets, and supermarkets are often closed on Sundays and public holidays.

Extra posts on the Camino de Santiago yow will discover HERE.

Camino Primitivo price

When you keep in albergues and purchase meals in supermarkets you may get away for as little as 15 to twenty Euro a day per particular person. When you keep in albergues, have lunch in a restaurant, cease for espresso or have a beer put together to spend between 25 to 30 Euro pp. per day.

  • Lodging – municipal albergues – 5-7 Euro pp., non-public albergues/hostels 12-14 Euro.
  • A meal in a restaurant (Menu del Dia) – 10-12 Euro pp.
  • Meals buying – 6-8 Euro pp. per day.
  • A cup of espresso – 1-1,8 euro. Espresso value was fairly an disagreeable shock evaluate to the opposite areas of Spain or Portugal.
  • A beer in a bar – 1,20 Euro.
  • Backpack supply service – 5-6 Euro per backpack per ыефпу.
  • Laundry – washing – 3 Euro per load; drying – 1,5-3 Euro per load.

We’ve a complete put up on the price of strolling the Camino de Santiago the place yow will discover all the pieces you want for planning your Camino funds.

Journey insurance coverage for the Camino Primitivo

Strolling like every other outside exercise entails a threat of getting an damage or shedding a number of the gear. It’s all the time really helpful to have journey insurance coverage while you go away. The Unique Manner of the Camino de Santiago isn’t an exclusion although it’s not a excessive altitude trek out of all Camino routes this route is the closest to a typical wild hike within the mountains. The Camino goes by means of some distant areas and it’s a bodily difficult path with many steep ascents and descends on the way in which, accidents particularly knee points are fairly frequent.

Make sure that it is possible for you to to get medical help any time you want it. Insurance coverage is kind of helpful as effectively in case of a gear break or loss, you may all the time declare it again. Let your insurance coverage firm fear about you and your belongings whilst you get pleasure from strolling the Camino. 

Social life on the Camino

For many people, it’s all the time a difficulty to seek out the best particular person to do a hike with as we don’t need to be lonely or bored strolling on our personal for days. No want to fret about it on the Camino you may come right here alone, you’ll be capable of discover strolling buddies right here. The truth is, there have been extra single pilgrims on our Camino than {couples} or teams.

There have been folks from the US, Canada, Australia, France, Spain, England, Germany, and so forth. When you communicate one of many European languages you’ll discover somebody to speak to. The second half of the day when everyone arrived at an albergue was the perfect and essentially the most social, folks cooking, consuming, and ingesting collectively. So in the event you hike in season between Might and September you undoubtedly received’t be lonely.

Packing record for the Camino Primitivo

Our essential recommendation is don’t pack an excessive amount of keep in mind you’ll have to hold that stuff for weeks. Our backpacks have been about 6-7kg every however we had a laptop computer and a giant DSLR digicam with out them you in all probability can decrease it right down to 5kg.

Need to get one thing particular for the Camino? Purchase a Camino de Santiago T-shirt there are such a lot of totally different choices!

Detailed Camino de Santiago packing record for various seasons for women and men you’ll discover in our detailed Camino packing put up.

YouTube thumbnail for the packing list for the Camino
Watch our video on what to pack for the Camino de Santiago

Oviedo the start of the stroll

The Camino Primitivo begins from the Oviedo cathedral most pilgrims arrive right here the day earlier than to have a while to discover the town. Oviedo is a stupendous metropolis with typical cobblestone streets, a stupendous cathedral, many eating places and bars. Simple to get by bus or by prepare from totally different cities in Spain.

Locations to remain in Oviedo

Municipal Albergue El Salvador

Fairly a giant albergue with many small rooms, {couples} get non-public rooms. It may accommodate 50 folks, opens at 1 pm. Worth 6 Euro pp, plus 1,5 euro for disposable bedding (elective). There are a few native cafes and a grocery store simply across the nook.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen with fridge, microwave, plates, cups, and utensils – sure (no range)
  • Washer – sure, 3,50 euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, 3 euro per load, espresso and snack merchandising machine.
  • Location – 4 out of 5, about 1km from the cathedral, the place to begin of the Camino Primitivo.
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5.

Non-public albergues and accommodations in Oviedo

When you’re not prepared to leap straight ahead into ascetic pilgrim’s life and like to remain your first night time in Oviedo in a pleasant and comfy place we’d counsel trying out a few of these accommodations.

Learn how to get to Oviedo?

When you come from abroad the simplest approach of attending to Oviedo is to fly to Mardid. Many ailines supply direct flight to Barajas Airport in Madrid from all around the world. From Madrid you may take a direct bus to Oviedo. There are various every day buses from Madrid together with direct buses to Oviedo from the airport. Costs range between 15 and 35 euro. Journey time between 5 and 6 hours. You will discover up-to-date itinerary and costs on the ALSA web site. There are direct buses to Oviedo from different Spanish cities e.g. Avilés, Gijón, Leon.

You will get from Madrid to Oviedo by a direct prepare. It takes 4h30min. The worth is 40 euro. It’s a bit sooner than by bus. You will get by prepare from Barcelona as effectively nevertheless it’s a really lengthy journey 10-11 hours with one connetction in Leon.

The bus and the prepare stations in Oviedo are in the identical place, about 20 min. stroll to the Cathedral, the place to begin of the Camino.

An old monastery on the Camino Primitivo
A monastery on the way in which to Grado. Within the mornings it was typically very cloudy and wet

Camino Primitivo strolling phases

Day 1. Oviedo – Grado, 25 km/15,5 mi

San Lazaro – La Bolguina – El Escamplero – Paladin – L’Arche – Grado

It’s vital to start out strolling early so as to have sufficient time for a number of lunch and relaxation breaks alongside the way in which. The primary day is all the time troublesome on any Camino. This stage is kind of difficult as a result of a number of steep ascents and descents.

You possibly can cut up he first day on the Camino Primitivo into two; stroll from Oviedo to El Escamplero, 12 km, and the following day from El Escamplero to Grado, 13 km. It’s a great choice in the event you don’t need to spend an evening in Oviedo and slightly begin strolling the identical day you arrive.

Our first day was very difficult as a result of heavy rain that continued all morning. The Camino Primitiv route begins on the cathedral of Oviedo after which goes by means of the town into the hills.

Highlights of the day

  • Oviedo Cathedral and the historic heart.
  • Pastoral surroundings; inexperienced hills, small villages, cows and sheep strolling round.
  • Lovely mountain surroundings.
  • The historic heart of Grado and the Sunday market.


  • A number of ascents and descents on the Camino


A giant city with many church buildings, a pleasant historic heart, many outlets, and so forth. When you’re within the metropolis on Sunday you’ll stroll by means of a giant native market the place you should buy scrumptious native cheeses, ham, salami, bread.

  • ATM – sure, many on the way in which
  • Outlets – sure, many supermarkets on the way in which, most open on Sundays.
  • Eating places, cafes – many on the way in which.

Municipal albergue

A pleasant home that may accommodate 16 folks. It’s fairly new, clear and has all the required. Worth – donation. Opens at 2 pm.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, fridge, pots, plates – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 4 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5.

Extra locations to remain in Grado*

*An entire record of lodging on the Camino yow will discover in our downloadable PDF file.

A typical scenery on the Original Way of St.James
The surroundings on the primary day of the Camino Primitivo.

Day 2. Grado to Salas, 24 km/15 mi

Grado – Villapañada – La Doriga – Cornellana – Casazorrina – Salas.

A good looking stroll by means of the mountains and small villages, we left early within the morning and all meals locations have been nonetheless closed, we walked all the way in which to earlier than we might have some meals and low. There’s a lengthy uphill after Grado. It was fairly a muddy day, principally strolling by means of the forest on the trail however as a result of heavy rains it was very soiled and moist so good waterproof sneakers are important.


  • Lovely surroundings.
  • A few previous small villages/cities.


  • Muddy path
  • Many up and down-hills


A pleasant city with a stupendous church and picturesque surroundings.

  • ATM – sure, a number of.
  • Outlets – sure, one fairly huge grocery store and a few smaller outlets.
  • Eating places – sure, a number of, some closed on Mondays.

Albergue de Salas, municipal (short-term closed*)

*as of March 2022

There are not any indications to the municipal albergue, to seek out it ask locals for ‘albergue municipal‘. It may match 16 folks. Worth 5 euro pp. It opens early you may simply are available in, take a mattress and an individual in cost will arrive later to register and gather cash.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with solely microwave and a few utensils, cups, and plates – sure
  • Washer – sure, 3 euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine (2,5 euro per load), heaters
  • Location – 4 out of 5, 100m away from the path
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5

Extra locations to remain in Salas

A narrow cobbled street and an old stone wall of Salas, Camino Primitivo, Spain
The historic heart of Salas, a small city on the Camino Primitivo

Day 3. Salas to Tineo, 20 km/12,4 mi

Salas – Bodenaya – La Espina – Tineo.

A pleasant strolling day with fairly a little bit of uphill strolling, a few pilgrim’s relaxation stops; a spot with espresso and snack merchandising machines, bathrooms, tables, and chairs. The primary place to cease for espresso is La Espina, 9km away.


  • Waterfall, about 2km from Salas, 250m down-hill detour
  • Forest stroll


  • Muddy path
  • Lengthy uphill at first


Fairly a giant city with a stupendous view of the valley and the mountains.

  • ATM – sure
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars, cafes – sure

Albergue Mater Christi de Tineo, municipal

You received’t miss this albergue, there are many arrows pointing the way in which, it’s proper on the city entrance. It may match 31 folks. It’s often open, you may are available in, select a mattress, a person in cost comes late afternoon to register pilgrims and gather cash. Worth 5 euro pp.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with very restricted facilities; a microwave and a few plates and cups – sure
  • Washer – sure, 3 euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, 3 euro per load
  • Location – 4 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 2 out of 5, very fundamental.

There are two non-public albergues/hostels nearer to the middle with higher services, value from 10 euro pp.

Extra locations to remain in Tineo

Day 4. Tineo to Pola de Allande, 28 km/17,3 mi

Tieno – Campiello – Borres – Porciles – Pola de Allande.

A protracted and tiring day I’d suggest beginning early. On the way in which from the albergue, there’s a bakery that opens at 6 am you should buy recent bread there. The subsequent place to cease for espresso or lunch is Campiello, 14km away.

As an choice you may break today on the Camino Primitivo into two; keep in Campiello (there are two non-public albergues there, each have eating places, one has a grocery store), and proceed the following day to Pola de Allande, 15km. It’s a great choice in the event you really feel drained, don’t push your self slightly stroll a brief day and relaxation extra. There’s a municipal albergue in Borres 17km nevertheless it’s greater than fundamental and there are not any outlets, just one bar.


  • Lovely morning view of Tineo from the highest of the hill.


  • Many smallish up-hills
  • A muddy path alongside cow pasture fields
  • Lengthy and steep down-hill, 300m, to Pola de Allande

Pola de Allande

A small and comfy city surrounded by mountains.

  • ATM – sure
  • Grocery store – sure, closed from 2 pm to 4.30pm
  • Eating places, bars, cafés – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de Pola de Allande, municipal (short-term closed*)

As of March 2022

The albergue is true on the entrance to the city, simple to seek out simply comply with the yellow arrows. Worth 6 euro pp. Opens at 1 pm.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, pots, pans, cups, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying line – sure
  • Blankets – sure, solely a pair
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5.

Extra locations to remain in Pola de Allande

A countryside scenery on the Camino Primitivo
Unbelievable surroundings on the way in which to Tineo

Day 5. Pola de Allande to La Mesa, 23 km/14,2 mi

Pola de Allande – Puerto del Palo – Montefurado – Lago – Barducedo – A Mesa.

From the start of the day you begin strolling uphill, essentially the most troublesome strolling day on the Camino Primitivo. The path goes by means of the mountains for some time there will probably be no place to cease for a cup of espresso or lunch, the closest place is Berducedo, 19km away. We’d counsel having breakfast in Pola there are a number of cafés on the way in which that serves breakfast from 6 am.

When you really feel very drained after an extended steep uphill as an choice you may keep in Barduceda, 18km from Pola, there are two albergues; one municipal and one non-public, a few bars, and a small store. By the way in which, the municipal albergue in A Mesa is among the worst on the Camino the one in Berducedo is best.


  • Beautiful view over the mountains
  • Montefurado – a tiny village on the highest of the hill with previous rock homes and partitions, just one resident and lots of cows.


  • Very lengthy and steep up-hill, 600m within the first half
  • Sturdy wind and mist on the highest, put together rain-jacket

La Mesa

There’s nothing right here besides for 2 albergues and a restaurant, it’s not a city or village if you wish to purchase some meals do it in Barducedo.

  • ATM – no
  • Grocery store – no
  • Restaurant – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de La Mesa, municipal (short-term closed*)

*as of March 2022

There are two albergues; one municipal and one non-public, municipal one may be very dilapidated with previous mattresses, small, smelly, and really humid. No one stayed right here, each albergues situated subsequent to one another. Worth 5 euro pp. There are 12 beds.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, pots, pans, cups, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying strains – sure
  • Blankets – sure, solely a pair
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 2 out of 5.

Albergue Miguelin, La Mesa, non-public

It’s extra like a pleasant hostel than albergue, all the pieces is new (opened in 2018), very clear and comfy; huge beds, lockers, mattress gentle, superior showers, good frequent space, spacious and fashionable. It may be booked upfront. There are 16 beds and a few non-public rooms.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – no however you should utilize the kitchen of municipal albergue, each are run by the identical particular person.
  • Washer – sure
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 5 out of 5.

Extra locations to remain in La Mesa

Two old houses in the middle of nowhere on the Camino
Montefurado, a tiny village on the high of the cross with solely on resident residing right here

Different route from Tineo to La Mesa by means of Hospitales, 46 km/28,5 mi, 2 days

There’s an elective route on the Camino Primitivo by means of Hospitales. The whole distance to A Mesa will probably be a bit shorter, the path goes up by means of the mountains. It’s value taking this route provided that the climate is nice in any other case will probably be cloudy, windy and also you received’t see something. The path splits on the second day at La Mortera, on the primary day you continue to stroll on the primary route, and joins once more on the second day at Puerto del Palo.

Day 4. Tineo to Borres, 18 km/11 mi

Borres is a tiny village with an albergue and a bar, no store. Take note the albergue in Borres may be very fundamental and doesn’t have a kitchen however you may get meals and low within the bar.

Day 5. Borres to La Mesa, 28km/elective Barducedo, 26 km/16 mi

From Borres you stroll for 15km by means of the wild with out something or anyone after that the path joins the primary route at Puerto del Palo from the place it’s 13km to A Mesa. On a transparent day, you’ll be capable of get pleasure from gorgeous mountainous surroundings.

Day 6. La Mesa to Grandas de Salime, 17 km/10,5 mi

La Mesa – Embalse de Salime – Grandas de Salime.

It was the day with essentially the most stunning surroundings, one lengthy downhill, many of the day slight uphill. We’d counsel having breakfast in La Mesa there isn’t a place to cease on the way in which besides one restaurant 4km earlier than Salime.


  • Tiny rocky chapel, after the primary up-hill from La Mesa, the smallest and cutest chapel we’ve ever seen
  • Beautiful view over Embalse de Salime (water reservoir) on the way in which right down to the dam. Essentially the most spectacular water physique on the Camino Primitivo.
  • A balcony/viewpoint on the dam on the right-hand facet of the street (stroll by means of the door).
  • Anthropology museum in Grandas de Salime, 1,5 euro entrance payment.


  • Steep and lengthy down-hill to the dam
  • Some street stroll alongside the dam however the street isn’t busy

Grandas de Salime

A pleasant city, we have been fairly completely satisfied we determined to remain and to not stroll on. There are two albergues right here, one municipal and one non-public, and a few pensions.

  • ATM – sure. Don’t use Telebanco, it costs 5 euro fee.
  • Grocery store – sure
  • Eating places – sure

Albergue de Grandas de Salime, municipal

A really good and neat albergue with good services, situated very near the grocery store and bakery. There are 25 beds, it opens at 12.30pm. Worth 8 euro pp. together with disposable bedding.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen with electrical range, pots, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – sure, 3 euro per load
  • Extras – drying machine (3 euro per load), espresso, cool drinks and snacks merchandising machine
  • Drying strains – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 4 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 5 out of 5
Embalse de Salime, a dam surrounded by the forest on the Camino in Asturias
Embalse de Salime, a stupendous dam within the forest simply earlier than Grandes de Salime

Day 7. Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada, 28 km/17,3 mi

Grandas de Salime – Cereixeira – Castro – Venta del Acebo – Barbeitos – A Fonsagrada.

A pleasant day of strolling with some up-hills, a forest stroll, and some muddy roads. The day went fairly quick for us it didn’t really feel we walked 26km. At present you allow Asturias and enter a distinct province – Galicia, there will probably be an indication indicating it.


  • It was so cloudy and misty that we didn’t see a lot.
  • Noticed an expensive and a genet within the forest.


  • Some street stroll however the roads weren’t busy we noticed a automobile each from time to time
  • Very steep up-hill proper on the finish all the way in which to A Fonsagrada.

A Fonsagrada

A pleasant and fairly huge city with a number of albergues, hostels, and pensions. A great place to purpose for in excessive season as there are numerous lodging choices. Consideration! Municipal albergue was once in Padron, 2km away from the city nevertheless it was moved now it’s in A Fonsagrada subsequent to the church.

  • ATM – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de A Fonsagrada, municipal

Positioned subsequent to the church, near the supermarkets and eating places. An previous home was an albergue, new, spacious and fashionable, extra like a cool hostel than a municipal albergue. One in every of our favourite albergues on the Camino Primitivo. Opens at 1 pm. Worth 8 euro together with bedding. It may accommodate 40 folks.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with electrical range, fridge, only a few pots, plates, and utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Extras – huge lounge space, heaters
  • Drying strains – sure
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5, an awesome place however the kitchen isn’t geared up very effectively.

Extra locations to remain in A Fonsagrada

Day 8. A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, 25 km/15,5 mi

A Fonsagrada – Padron – Paradavella – A Lastra – Fontaneira – O Cadavo Baleira.

Climate-wise it was one of many worst days on our Camino, it rained from early morning, we have been moist, chilly and depressing.


  • One lengthy down-hill
  • Many up-hills typically fairly steep

O Cadavo Baleira

A small city with three albergues, one municipal and two non-public. There are outlets however all of them are closed on Sundays you need to deliver meals with you from A Fonsagrada or eat in one of many eating places. There are a few bars a bit additional away from the albergue that offer you tapas without cost in the event you order drinks.

  • ATM – sure.
  • Store – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de O Cadavo Baleira, municipal

The albergue is okay not as new and fashionable because the one in A Fonsagrada however all the pieces works good and it’s clear. Worth 8 Euro, together with disposable bedding. Opens at 1 pm.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with electrical range, fridge, pots, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying strains – sure
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5.

There’s a new non-public albergue down the road for 10 Euro with higher services.

Extra locations to remain in O Cadavo Baleira

Day 9. O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, 30 km/18,6 mi

Vilabade – Castroverde – Vilar de Cas – Gondar – Castelo – Lugo.

We’d counsel beginning the day early so as to have extra time in Lugo, it’s a pleasant metropolis with loads to see. The municipal albergue in Lugo has solely 40 beds so in the event you arrive late you won’t get a spot however there are numerous non-public albergues and hostels there. You will get breakfast and low at Vilabade there’s a meals kiosk there, individuals who run it’s going to open a neighborhood church for you, inform you somewhat bit in regards to the Camino Primitivo (in the event you perceive Spanish).


  • Umbrella fountain in entrance of the church in Castroverde seems superb if it rains.
  • The historic city of Lugo; spectacular large Roman partitions, Gothic cathedral, cobblestone streets.
  • Calle de los Vinos in Lugo (avenue close to the cathedral), don’t miss it particularly over weekends, there are a number of bars the place in the event you order drinks you get free tapas, small beer 1,20 Euro, huge – 2 Euro.
  • Bakery Meson de Crecente in Lugo throughout the street from Puerta de San Pedro they’re opened until late, have scrumptious pastry, good espresso, you get one thing candy along with your espresso without cost.


  • Lengthy distance, 30km, comparatively flat with one up-hill at first.
  • Just a little little bit of strolling on the street however more often than not there have been no automobiles.


A giant metropolis with a stupendous historic heart behind the previous Roman partitions; cobblestone streets, cathedral, church buildings, museums, and so forth. A few of our Camino mates, who arrived too drained for strolling across the metropolis, stayed right here for 2 days to have an opportunity to see it. Bear in mind, you’re not allowed to remain for 2 nights within the municipal albergue however non-public albergues received’t thoughts.

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure. The subsequent day there will probably be no outlets on the way in which if you wish to purchase one thing purchase it in Lugo.
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de Lugo, municipal

A pleasant and large place contained in the Wall, near the eating places and cathedral. It may match 40 folks, opens at 1 pm. Worth 8 euro together with disposable bedding.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – sure, with very restricted facilities
  • Washer – sure, 3 euro per load
  • Drying strains – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, 1,5 euro per load
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5.

Extra locations to remain in Lugo

Day 10. Lugo to San Romao da Retorta (Castrelo), 20 km/12,4 mi

Lugo – San Lazaro – San Vicenzo do Burgo – San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo.

It will have been a simple strolling day and we have been planning to stroll additional to the following place nevertheless it rained very laborious, we have been fully moist and determined to cease at San Roman da Retorta. As an choice to make your subsequent day shorter you may stroll 5km extra and cease at A Covela (there is just one non-public albergue there).


  • Good view on Lugo and the Outdated Roman bridge from the outskirts of the town.
  • A good looking stroll by means of the forest.


  • Half of the day strolling on the street although not very busy.

San Roman da Retorta (Castrelo)

Each locations are principally the identical village, there’s nothing right here aside from one municipal and one non-public albergue with a restaurant.

Albergue O Candido (non-public)

We arrived fairly early, didn’t need to proceed strolling in heavy rain, the municipal albergue was closed until 1 pm so we didn’t need to wait and checked in to the non-public one. Worth 12 euro. The restaurant right here isn’t nice, they serve ready-made meals, salads, sandwiches, not superb espresso.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – no however we might get scorching water, use microwave and plates.
  • Washer – no, they ship laundry to Lugo (get again the identical day) the place it will get washed and dried. It’s simpler and cheaper to do it your self within the albergue in Lugo.
  • Drying strains – no
  • Extras – heaters within the dorms and a hearth downstairs, nice for drying garments and sneakers.
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 4 out of 5

Extra lodging choice choices in San Romao

| Municipal albergue, 8 euro | Casa Castrelo |

A small waterfall hidden in the forest on the Camino route
A small waterfall within the forest on the Camino Primitivo

Day 11. San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo to Melide, 28 km/17,3 mi

Ferreira (O Carballal) – As Seixas – Casacamino – Irago de Arriba – Melide.

Final day of strolling with out crowds of pilgrims on the paths. There are a number of eating places on the way in which the place you may cease for lunch or espresso.


  • Some elements of the path by means of the forest. To be sincere, the final three days of the Camino Primitivo are much less spectacular than the primary half.


  • Some up-hill strolling although not steep or lengthy.


The Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Frances in Melide. For the final two days, you stroll on the French Camino. While you attain the town don’t be stunned there will probably be a whole lot of pilgrims there. The final a part of the French Manner from Sarria is the preferred Camino route. No want to fret about lodging, there are numerous albergues, together with one municipal for 120 folks. The city is legendary for pulperias – eating places the place you may eat pulpo (octopus cooked with spices).

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue O Cruceiro, non-public

We arrived earlier than 12 pm and didn’t really feel like ready for the municipal albergue to open so we went to the primary albergue we noticed. It’s near supermarkets and bars. Worth 12 Euro pp. together with disposable bedding. It may be booked upfront.

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen (cooking plates, pots, plates, cup, cutlery) – sure.
  • Washer – sure, 4 Euro per load.
  • Drying strains – no
  • Extras – AC, drying machines, lounge space, TV, lockers, every mattress has a private gentle and an outlet.
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation degree – 5 out of 5.

Our mates stayed within the municipal one, it was positive, the worth is 8 Euro.

Extra locations to remain in Melide

Day 12. Melide to O Pedrouzo, 33 km/20,5 mi

Melide – Boente – A Fraga Alta – Ribadiso da Baixo – Arzua – Calle – Salceda – Mojon – O Empalme – Santa Irene – A Rua – O Pedrouzo.

After the quiet Camino Primitivo, you begin strolling on the French Camino with a whole lot if not 1000’s of different pilgrims. There are various espresso outlets, eating places, albergues on the way in which, each 5km not less than. To get from the Camino Primitivo to the French Manner was like to come back out of a quiet forest proper in the midst of a giant and busy metropolis.


  • Fairly a little bit of strolling alongside the street
  • Lots of of pilgrims on the route, particularly after Arzua
  • Distance, 33km – the longest day on the Camino

O Pedrouzo

Don’t know if this place would exist with out the Camino, the city is principally just one avenue with many albergues, eating places, cafes, and so forth. There are a number of non-public albergues/hostels and accommodations in addition to one municipal albergue. We didn’t keep right here we determined to problem ourselves and walked all the way in which to Santiago in someday, 53km. It was powerful however we made it by 6 pm and have been fairly completely satisfied to be completed someday earlier and have extra time to discover Santiago.

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Locations to remain in O Pedrouzo

| Albergue O Trisquel | Pension Maruja | Pension 23 | Pension Diana | Pension 9 de Abril |

Day 13. O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 20 km/12,4 mi

O Pedrouzo – San Paio – Lavacolla – Monte do Gozo – Santiago de Compostela.

On the final day on the Camino Primitivo, we’d counsel beginning early if you wish to make it to the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm (there’s a Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm as effectively). Bear in mind you’re not allowed to enter the cathedral with a backpack you may both go away it in your albergue or on the Pilgrim’s Reception Workplace, 100m from the cathedral.

Word! As for March 2020, the Lots happen in several places because of the renovation within the Cathedral.

The best choice is to remain in one of many albergues on the way in which to the cathedral you may simply drop your backpack there and proceed strolling as we did. We stayed at Albergue Turistico La Credencial, a pleasant place, comfy dormitories, clear, good services, a bit removed from the historic heart however proper on the French Camino and 500m from the bus station. Worth 16 Euro for a dorm mattress. Typically absolutely booked particularly in season.


  • Beautiful forest proper after O Pedrouzo.


  • The final 10km of the stroll should not effectively marked, no distances, you principally comply with the group.

The Camino Primitivo provides a stupendous forest and mountain surroundings. When you’d like so as to add some sea views to finish the image we are able to suggest a 3-4-day stroll from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre – “the tip of the world”. When you don’t really feel like strolling anymore however nonetheless want to go to Finisterre and Muxia capes you are able to do a day bus tour from Santiago.

The Cathedral of Santiago at the sunset
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the tip of the Camino Primitivo

Santiago de Compostela the tip of the Camino Primitivo

There are various nice issues to do in Santiago de Compostela to maintain you busy for a few days from going out for wine and tapas to visiting museums and doing day journeys to the coast.

If by the tip of your Camino you are feeling such as you’ve stayed sufficient in albergues and slept sufficient in dormitories there are many good accommodations in Santiago the place you may lastly have some privateness and luxuriate in consolation.

Locations to remain in Santiago de Compostela

Excursions and actions in Santiago de Compostela

When you have a few days in Santiago you may spend a while exploring the town and its environment.

Getting the Compostela in Santiago

To get the Compostela (the accreditation of pilgrimage to the Tomb of St.James) go to the Pilgrim’s Reception Workplace in Santiago. One of the best ways is to reach there earlier than 8 am (opening time) and stand in a queue, some folks do it the following day after they arrive in Santiago. When you arrive there later within the day you would possibly spend ready between 1 and three hours relying on the season.

To get Compostela you should present your Credential with stamps that confirms that you just’ve walked greater than 100km and pay 5 Euro. As an choice, you may kind a gaggle and apply in your Compostela as a gaggle then you definitely don’t wait within the queue you fill out the kinds and are available again later at a longtime time to gather your Compostela.

We have been instructed that the primary 10 folks within the queue get a free meal in one of many metropolis eating places, not 100% positive about it as we didn’t strive. To be first within the queue you need to be on the workplace earlier than 7 am, it opens at 8 am.

Botafumeiro ceremony within the Cathedral of Santiago

Formally it’s achieved solely on particular spiritual celebrations like Easter, Christmas. It was once a part of the Friday Mass however apparently, it’s a really costly ceremony and now to see it exterior of the talked about above days folks must pay. It prices 400 Euros to ebook the Botafumeiro ceremony in the course of the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm.

You possibly can share the associated fee between as many individuals as you need or you might be fortunate and anyone arranges it for the day you’re there. It’s essential to ebook it beforehand.

I’ve seen the ceremony solely as soon as and it was really spectacular, one thing to expertise in the event you’re a gaggle of individuals we’d counsel reserving Botafumeiro to have fun the tip of the Camino and to make that day much more particular. Bear in mind no picture or video is allowed in the course of the Mass even in the event you personally pay for Botafumeiro.

Last ideas in regards to the Camino Primitivo

It was our second Camino de Santiago, we completed the Camino Portuguese two days earlier than we began the Primitivo, and I need to say these are two fully totally different experiences. We each love climbing within the mountains and the Camino Primitivo is as shut as you may get to it on any Camino de Santiago, with no huge cities and busy roads, extra countryside, mountains, and forest.

Although it felt fairly wild and untouched there’s sufficient infrastructure to make your stroll nice; totally different lodging and meals choices, simple to discover a place to cease for espresso and lunch in the midst of the day, the route is effectively marked, and so forth.

This Camino is a good mixture of a “wild” climbing expertise with good infrastructure. One more reason we actually favored the Primitivo is not many individuals, evaluate to the opposite Caminos de Santiago, solely 5% of all pilgrims stroll this Camino plus the distance321km isn’t so long as the French or Northern Camino you may full it throughout your commonplace vacation.

Our favourite albergues on the Camino

  • Albergue de San Juan de Villapañada (municipal) – an awesome place with gorgeous places, superb services, pleasant folks, nice vibe, 5 Euro pp.
  • Albergue Miguelin, A Mesa (non-public) – very comfy new albergue with all the pieces you may look forward to finding in a pleasant hostel, 12 Euro pp.
  • Albergue de A Fonsagrada (municipal) – an superior albergue in a giant previous home with conventional thick stone partitions, very fashionable and comfy, comfy beds, huge frequent space, 6 Euro pp.

Essentially the most difficult day

Day 5 or 6 relying in your itinerary from Pola de Allande to A Mesa, 22km, the longest and hardest uphill stroll on the route with a subsequent lengthy descent. There are a few long-distance days, 30km+ (you may cut up them into shorter days) they’re fairly powerful however often, it’s a flat stroll.

Essentially the most stunning day

Stroll from A Mesa to Grandes de Salime, 17km; lush inexperienced forest, gorgeous turquoise coloration Embalse de Salime, stunning mountains, nice lookouts. We have been completely satisfied it was a brief day and we might cease loads for photographs and benefit from the surroundings.

Really useful books and guidebooks

Helpful apps for the Unique Manner

  • Camino Help Pilgrim Santiago. Free obtain, accessible for Android and Apple.
  • TrekRight Camino Primitivo. Price US$10, accessible for Android and Apple.
  • Buen Camino de Santiago. Free obtain, accessible for Android and Apple.
  • Correctly + Camino Primitivo; a Clever Pilgrim information. Price US$6, accessible for Android and Apple. We haven’t used it however I noticed many sad customers complaining in regards to the app, I’d suggest studying the opinions earlier than shopping for it.

Camino Primitivo route planning assets


Camino Primitivo pin


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